Pat McGrath Labs’ Bankruptcy and the Double Standard for Dark Glamor Beauty
Earlier this week, when Pat McGrath Labs revealed that it had filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy—a way for companies to settle their debts while still in business—one person’s response on Twitter cut through the Internet’s grumbling about the brand’s financial situation: “Pat McGrath products are out of reach for most Black women, so you’re pushing her and you’re happy why she’s pushing. Myricks took her place.”
From there, a small but loud corner of the Black community rallied, criticizing one of the most successful Black women in beauty history for taking the luxury spot. “To be honest it’s very expensive, considering the location and the type of customer it hopes to attract. Hence the drop in sales. It’s not like the beauty of Hermès or Carolina Herrera,” one user wrote. “Pat McGrath (herself) is a legend. But Pat McGrath Labs (the company) is not established enough to have the same audience range as brands like NARS, MAC, & Too Faced. It’s self-destructive pricing of similar products that you haven’t reached yet.” Another response read: “She believed that because she did celebrity makeup that her prices should be ridiculously expensive out of the gate. She came out with high makeup prices as a newcomer. You have to crawl before you run.”
For the unknown: Pat McGrath, the makeup artist behind the brand (and Dame of the British Empire, by the way), has painted the faces of famous people like Naomi Campbell, Taylor Swift, and Gigi Hadid, and has changed the beauty of the runway time and again; most recently with the stained glass skin he created for John Galliano’s 2024 Maison Margiela Artisanal show.
And you are caught in a strange way. In general, luxury brands are not expected to be affordable because it is simply not their business model. Victoria Beckham Beauty sells foundation for $100, while La Mer charges more than $80 for some of its cosmetics. No one is calling them oppressive or asking them to lower their prices for partnering with white women who can’t afford it, but it seems that’s exactly what was expected of Pat McGrath Labs. (Pat McGrath’s 10-shade Mothership eye shadow palettes retail for around $128, and her lipsticks range from $29 to $39. That puts her squarely in the same price range as brands like Natasha Denona, Chantecaille, and yes, Danessa Myricks—which is quite different from other Labs Patacac Twitter users
For black brands of all kinds, “accessibility” has become a test. When a black person launches a product, it is assumed that their products should be cheap and available in the mass market. Founders, like the late Sharon Chuter of Uoma Beauty, recalled that they faced many questions from their customers about their prices. It’s an impossible position for Black leaders to enjoy luxury. They are expected to serve their entire community at prices everyone can afford while being successful on their own terms.
