What is hyaluronic acid and how does it work in skin care and cosmetics?

Hyaluronic acid (HA), along with its cousin sodium hyaluronate, is a very popular ingredient in skin care and cosmetics. It is also found naturally in the body. Most of it resides in the extracellular matrix, the scaffolding that holds your skin cells together. Hyaluronic acid is found in both the epidermis and the deep dermis, where it is important for hydration, metabolic processes, skin repair, and protection from free radical damage and UV.

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan, a class of chemicals that can they hold water very wellbecause of its very cool nature. Hyaluronic acid keeps the skin firm and plump In this way. It is thought that the decrease in hyaluronic acid levels has led to the thin and dry appearance of aging skin. However, research currently suggests that the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin does not actually decrease with age, but redistributes with natural and environmental aging of the skin.

In skin care, hyaluronic acid is widely used because of its amazing ability to retain moisture: it is included in moisturizers and serums as a treatment. a humectant an ingredient. Humectants hydrate the skin, and since one of the consequences of dehydrated skin is fine lines and wrinkles, this it makes your skin look much younger and less tired. Another popular and inexpensive humectant moisturizer is glycerin, but glycerin can feel sticky and heavy. Hyaluronic acid is often combined with glycerin to make it feel lighter on the skin.

Hyaluronic acid used in skin care is unique. It is usually divided different sizes: there is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which has a large molecular size, and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which is made by cutting it into small pieces. “Sodium hyaluronate” usually shows smaller particles than “hyaluronic acid”, but even within those names there is a range of molecular sizes. The main importance of different sizes is that small molecules are able to penetrate the skin better than large molecules, that is low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can deeply hydrate It has a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which holds water on the surface of the skin.

There is some debate as to how low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can act as a an inflammatory signal and therefore dangerous, but it is important to remember that inflammation is not always a bad thing. Research on skin and skin cells has found that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can improve the skin’s ability to repair itself, protect itself from bacterial attack and help with conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis. I hope there will be more research on its effects on normal skin as well.

However, don’t be fooled into thinking that using hyaluronic acid on your skin can help replenish your natural stores! Unfortunately, even low molecular hyaluronic acid can only penetrate the lower epidermis. It’s a great hydrating ingredient, and hydration is amazing at improving your skin’s performance. There is also a little anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity, but most of its benefits are related to hydration.

Hyaluronic acid can also appear different sources. The two main sources are biofermentation (made by bacteria) and… cockroaches, which contain about 15 times more hyaluronic acid than human skin. Yes, those things are dangerous to chickens. If you’re vegetarian, you’ll want to look at the source of hyaluronic acid in your products.

In addition to skin care, you will find dehydrated hyaluronic acid particles in the makeup, in particular primers lighten the skin. Dry particles are mixed into an anhydrous formula. The product is applied to the skin and sinks into any fine lines and wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid particles begin to hold on to any water molecules they touch on the skin and in the air, and the swelling effect hides the lines.

In some areas of skin care, chemically modified hyaluronic acid is also used filler injections such as Juvéderm Restylane and Voluma to tighten deep wrinkles. It is also the basis of Macrolane, a controversial filler that has been used for breast and butt enhancement. Oral supplements of hyaluronic acid is sold in food stores but no benefits have been shown yet (it is doubtful whether hyaluronic acid survives digestion, and can make it out of the digestive tract into the skin).

So far, my favorite hyaluronic acid product has to be the Beloved Hyaluronic Acid GHK-Cu Moisturizing Serum (click for full review), which made my skin incredibly plump and plump. I can also vouch for Indeed Labs Hydraluron (review). I haven’t tried the Hylamide Low-Molecular HA Rehydration Booster but I’ve heard good things about it. Other budget options with good reviews are Timeless Hyaluronic Acid and Hada Labo Rohto Gokujyn Hyaluronic Acid Lotion.

Repair

2025-11-25: 1 gram of hyaluronic acid extract can hold up to 6 liters of water – this is from an Int J Toxicol article approved by members of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel. The source they cite has no reference to this claim, which, in retrospect, is questionable at first glance.

This is a good example of how stylistic claims of “fun fact” in the introduction of peer-reviewed articles are not really credible, even if the journal and authors are highly respected – myths abound in all of science! It is worth doubting especially if the claim is related to the author’s expertise, and especially if it does not directly correspond to the main topic of the article. This article by Borchers and Pirrung in J Cosmet Sci debunks this myth in detail.

References

S Gariboldi et al., Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid increases the defense of the skin epithelium by induction of beta-defensin 2 through TLR2 and TLR4 (open access), J Immunol 2008, 1812103-2110.

M Essendoubi, C Gobinet, R Reynaud, JF Angboust, M Manfait & O Piot, Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as investigated by Raman spectroscopy, Skin Res Technol 2016, 2255-62.

T Schlesinger & C Rowland Powell, Efficacy and safety of topical low molecular weight hyaluronic acid gel in the treatment of facial seborrheic dermatitis final report (open access), J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2014, 715-18.