Why isn’t everyone exfoliating with AHAs?
Melissa says…I’ve been using a night cream with glycolic acid and I’ve noticed that my skin is actually brighter, clearer, and softer. I’ve been using this product for years and I still love it but I’m worried that it might be too good to be true. Are there any risks associated with alpha hydroxy acid products? Why don’t we use them?
Thank you Melissa. Longtime fans of this show will remember that I love getting questions about Alpha Hydroxy Acids because it gives me an excuse to retell the story of the marketing director from St. Ives didn’t get the acronym and instead of calling them AHAs he would call them “Ah-Ha’s.” That always made me laugh during meetings because it sounded like he was talking with exclamation points. “We need to introduce a new AHA!”
Before we answer Melissa’s questions, let’s quickly go back to what AHAs are and how they work. Alpha Hydroxy Acids are a class of chemicals used to exfoliate dead skin cells. They consist of a long chain of carbon and hydrogen atoms with a carboxylic acid group at the end. When we name the carbon chains we start by writing the carbon next to the carboxylate known as the α carbon, the next carbon is the β carbon, and so on. So in this case the carboxylate is on that first carbon so this is an ALPHA hydroxy acid. Salicylic acid has a group on the second carbon so it is a BETA hydroxy acid.
They work by softening the “glue” that holds skin cells together so that dead skin cells fall off easily. When this happens, the basal layer starts producing new skin cells. This is also called “increasing cell turnover.”
There are several types of AHAs. The two most common are Glycolic and Lactic. Glycolic acid is very small, it can be found in sugar cane or it is produced synthetically. Lactic is also known as “milk acid” because it can be found in sour milk products, as well as fermented vegetables and fruits.
One lesser-known AHA is actually Perry’s favorite to call it: Tartaric Acid. Other standouts include citric and malic acid. There is another PHA or polyhydroxy acid and that is lactobionic acid. Interestingly, according to a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Lactobionic acid is not only more effective than glycolic acid in improving cell turnover but also less irritating. An international team from London, Serbia and Slovenia tested both AHAs in cream and gel. 26 volunteers used the products twice a day for two weeks. The researchers found that Lactobionic acid benefited better in both forms although their data showed that the gel base worked better than the cream form.
But Melissa asked if there are any risks associated with AHAs. Yes, there are. Some people cannot tolerate their effects and experience redness and irritation (especially if they have skin with rosacea.) Using products too often or using products with high concentrations can aggravate this problem. A potential problem is that if you misuse AHAs they can increase the risk of UV exposure. This was decided by the European Commission for Scientific Affairs. This is a problem if you use them inappropriately or too often but for most people, AHAs are fine.
So if they are so effective and safe for so many people, why isn’t everyone using them? Great question! First, everyone’s skin is different and not everyone responds to AHAs to the same degree. Some people (especially if they are prone to conditions like rosacea) may experience redness and irritation to a degree that can negate the benefits. Some people may have dabbled in AHA products but perhaps they didn’t choose one with the highest level of active ingredients and were so disappointed with the results that they simply stopped. But there are many people like you who have chosen a good product and responded well to it. Good for you!!
Another factor, in my opinion, is that the beauty industry wants to sell more products (and more expensive products) by luring you with the latest and greatest technology. We’re so inundated with all these new product launches that sound so amazing, that sometimes it’s hard to focus on the basics that actually work. Companies may think it’s too hard to sell “old” technologies like AHAs when they can’t chase the latest and greatest algae that’s been released or whatever.
ALS vs. SLS vs. SLES vs. ALES
Long time fan Alessandra asks…Which is stronger SLS vs ALS vs SLES vs ALES?
First, let’s cut through that alphabet soup: Most people know that SLS is sodium lauryl sulfate. They may not know that ALS is Ammonium lauryl sulfate. If you see an “E” added to the name it means Sodium or Ammonium “LAURETH” sulfate.
Yes, the “eth” stands for ethoxylation which means lengthening the molecule by adding some oxygen atoms. Why would we do this? Because the ethoxylation process makes the detergent less powerful (and less powerful as a detergent.) That’s mainly because it’s more water soluble. So does that mean that sodium lauryl and ammonium lauryl are harder than sodium laureth and ammonium laureth? Did I get it?
So what about sodium vs ammonium versions? There really isn’t much of a difference. It is the lauryl sulfate part of the molecule that is the problem and not the counter ion.
Alessandra pointed out that several brands such as Organix and Leonor Greyl, advertise their shampoos as SLES-free but have ammonium lauryl sulfate as the first ingredient. Now you know how misleading that is!
Are silkworm cocoons good for skin?
Becky says…I’ve read a few articles about the collagen-boosting qualities of silk cocoons – apparently rubbing it on your face improves your skin’s texture, improves signs of UV damage and all sorts of other amazing things. It sounds like another crazy gimmick but I saw in this article that they back it up with some pretty convincing words from a dermatologist.
Becky, the dermatologist quoted in the article says very convincing things. For the most part, a woman would apply cocoons to her face every day for about a month and at the end of that time her skin would look better. Of course this cannot be considered scientific evidence because the experiment involved one person and there was no control.
But there are some studies that show sericin (silk protein) can have anti-aging properties under certain conditions. For example, one study showed that silk sericin “can stimulate the formation of type I collagen, suppress the regulation of nitrite, nitrite can cause oxidative stress.” This test was done by using pure sericin directly on lab cell cultures NOT to prove that rubbing cocoons on your face will do anything.
I’m still skeptical, though, because rubbing cocoa on your face isn’t the most efficient way to deliver sericin to the skin and the amount of protein that can be delivered that way seems to be very low. Stick to anti-aging products that are proven to help.
Should you be concerned about fake hairspray?
Redheaded 4 Trouble says… I saw this picture floating around on Facebook. It shows a can of hairspray with the label torn off to reveal a different brand underneath. The caption reads: “This is why DO NOT buy from TJ MAXX, ROSS or MARSHALS!!! Only buy from your stylists, that’s all.” I think this is probably just something that salons spread so that people buy these products from them at a high price. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
This is not nearly as bad as it seems and is NOT proof that TJ Maxx is selling fake hair spray. My guess is that the company had too many cans decorated with blue product so rather than destroying them and losing value, they decided to relabel them and use them for another product.
Of course, if it were TJ Maxx or another third party labeling one product with a label from another, the ingredient list would be incorrect (along with other information) which would be illegal.
How will this work? They buy a cheap, low-quality product and rewrite it? But the bottom product is Egypt vs Chi – prove that this is the same type. Why don’t they buy Suave hairspray and relabel it? It makes no sense!
After I wrote this, I found a Snopes article that gave the same answer:
Beauty Stories of Science
Lifestyle is more important than genetics in looking young
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New makeup trend
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We are often criticized for being out of touch with the latest beauty trends – but not today! Here’s a story from Refinery29 about the newest, most exciting thing in makeup: ear makeup. Apparently some popular Instagram users are posting pictures where they have put a dab of glitter or a spot of color in their ears. Violette is one of the most popular.
It’s interesting because this is not an area of the body where makeup is used a lot but apparently now the rage has died down. Right now these women just change some makeup and put on their ears but it’s only a matter of time before some savvy makeup manufacturer catches on and starts making makeup specifically designed for the ears.
I predict we’ll see MAC launch an Ear Shadow and Ear Gloss line to brighten up your pores! Now, this creates a new problem: makeup residue on ear jewelry. Your earrings are definitely going to get gunked up so you’ll need a special earring makeup remover. Well, I created that product and I call it – wait for it…”Earring Help.” Get it?
iTunes Review – it’s an international iTunes review program!
Twiddly dee from Canada says… As an Esthetician I can appreciate all the science behind the products. Keep it up!
Hrwlondon from UK says…Both an informative and relaxing listen. Lots of interesting facts and anecdotes. Would love to feature the top ten ingredients soon!
MeginMunich from Germany….Best Beauty Tips! I really appreciate the scientific basis of these beauty tips. Most of the information available these days is distributed by marketing teams and can be downright confusing.
Livdane from Latvia says… Funny, evidence-based and informative. I used to think I was an informed and skeptical consumer. Now looking back I appreciate the Dunning-Kruger effect on me in the best possible way. The podcast revealed a whole new world of cosmetic chemistry in the amazing and fun way Randy and Perry bring it. Now I can make a claim: “listening to Beauty Brains reduces the perceived feeling and appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
